The Movado M95 Watch Explores the Lesser-known Side of the Golden Age of Chronographs

The modern, minimalist "Museum Dial" collection is typically the first thing that enthusiasts think of when thinking about Movado. The Movado brand was associated with some of the most exquisite and captivating watches of the 20th century, especially from the 1920s to the 1970s, despite its less-than-stelling reputation in contemporary watchmaking circles. The brand's area of expertise during this time was chronographs; in 1938, it created the first two-pusher modular chronograph and one of the first split-second chronographs to be sold commercially. When talking about this "golden era of hand-wound chronographs," other brands like Heuer, Omega, and Zenith tend to loom large despite this excellent legacy. 

Few collectors are as knowledgeable as Linden Lazarus, the creator and owner of Oliver and Clarke, an online store selling vintage watches. Even though Lazarus is only 19 years old, he has years of experience with vintage watches and operates one of the most successful and well-informed companies of its kind in the market today. Lazarus's own M95, which he treasures greatly in his collection, is named after himself. This piece, which took years of patient hunting to obtain, is touted by Lazarus as the best example of the M95 he has ever seen. The diversity and caliber of the works that Oliver and Clarke consistently review is indicative of the true gravity that classic Movado can carry.

One of the brand's most enduring and varied chronograph lines is the M95, which was available in the Movado catalog from 1939 until 1970. El Primero-powered chronographs, which were created in collaboration with Zenith, the brand's then-partner, eventually replaced the M95. Over more than three decades, the series' mechanical makeup remained largely unchanged, but an impressive range of aesthetic variants were produced during this extended production run. This third-generationA nearly all-dial design and an elegantly slim polished sloping bezel give the Movado M95 ref. 95-704-568 a classically sporting stance, despite its 35mm width making it pleasantly compact on the wrist. With its high visual beltline, long, sharply tapering lugs, and tastefully rounded piston pushers, the overall design is reminiscent of classic midcentury chronographs. The M95's distinct character is initially experienced by the wearer through these pushers. Since the 2 o'clock pusher resets, the 4 o'clock pusher initiates and stops the chronograph, making the M95 "upside down" in comparison to most conventional chronographs. 

A nearly all-dial design and an elegantly slim polished sloping bezel give the Movado M95 ref. 95-704-568 is a classically sporting stance, despite its 35mm width making it pleasantly compact on the wrist. With its high visual beltline, long, sharply tapering lugs, and tastefully rounded piston pushers, the overall design is reminiscent of classic midcentury chronographs. The M95's distinct character is initially experienced by the wearer through these pushers. Since the 2 o'clock pusher resets, the 4 o'clock pusher initiates and stops the chronograph, making the M95 "upside down" in comparison to most conventional chronographs. 

After a few hours of wear, this peculiarity becomes more or less intuitive. It was designed to facilitate left-handed wearers' operations without requiring the creation of a specific "destro" layout. With a genuinely remarkable pedigree, this case is also one of the M95's most desired features. François Borgel, a company that was well-known for making cases for Patek Philippe at the time, made the case for this late-model variant. Aside from its history of collaboration with brands like Vacheron Constantin, it is also notable for being the first to design a water-resistant Rolex case, preceding the launch of the internal Oyster design.

A further highlight of this model is the original bracelet that came with this Movado M95 ref. 95-704-568. Though this unusual five-link design is sometimes mistakenly identified as beads of rice design, it actually shares more similarities with the Holzer bracelets that were available on the Mexican market for Omegas around this time. Although this has some of the lightness and flexibility that are sometimes associated with vintage bracelets, it is a pleasure to wear thanks to its exquisite finishing and pristine signed clasp.

It is simple to forget about Movado's rich history and the exceptional watches the company has created, considering how the brand is currently regarded in enthusiast circles. Nonetheless, watches such as this Movado M95 ref. 95-704-568 from the late 1960s remain among the best available during the peak of the hand-wound chronograph industry. The heritage, character, and quality of vintage Movado are being embraced by knowledgeable collectors and industry professionals like Linden Lazarus. This serves as a powerful reminder to all enthusiasts to choose a watch that goes beyond the obvious options.